Advocate Harbour and The Fundy Coast
Lat week I knew one thing above all else and that was that I really needed to get away. If you ever want to test your inner strength, try challenging your local government. It’s a character building experience. So, I grabbed the husband, dropped off the kid with some wonderful friends and took off for the Fundy Coast. A few unconnected Facebook friends mentioned a place called Advocate Harbour and they both raved about a restaurant called Wild Caraway, so with a name like that and a name like that, how could I resist?
I know I should show you more of the magnificent, rugged beauty of this part of Nova Scotia before talking about food, but, Honest to God, I have never had better food in my life. In two days we ate there three times.
We stayed at a sweet little B and B that was right next to where I was standing when taking this photo. It is called Spencer’s Island Bed and Breakfast. My weekend largely consisted of walking out the door, down this path….
stopping to smell the roses and then ….
Sitting on this beautiful beach totally alone and staring at the water and the wild rock formations off in the distance. There is nothing better than being overwhelmed by beauty.
Then we would head to The Wild Caraway, and get overwhelmed by the food and the decor and the colours and the friendly and shockingly beautiful waitresses….
and by their amazing garden, fenced in by their fire wood.
Another view.
I can’t say we really hiked, we really more promenaded and stared.
This part of the province is very sparsely populated. I think Advocate Harbour has around 200 people, but they have a little school that goes from Primary to Grade 12 and has a total of 55 students. This abandoned home was particularly mind blowing.
I didn’t dare go in as it didn’t really inspire confidence, but what a beauty. Thinking of making a coffee table book, The Abandoned Houses of Nova Scotia. Would make a great Christmas present for Nova Scotia politicians.
But let’s get back to The Wild Caraway. Aside from being able to say that this is the best restaurant I have ever been to in my life, I was just amazed that this couple from Alberta and Australia made the bold move to buy the old doctor’s place and turn it into this destination. What a leap of faith in a sleepy little remote town. But it worked. They built it and the people came. In every little detail you can see care and passion for what they do. They even have a little Bed and Breakfast upstairs. Not to get too preachy in my first few hours back into the real world, but people like this are the future of Nova Scotia and The Government needs to recognize it. Go visit them, learn from them, ask them if there is anything they might need. This one little restaurant was employing a whole lot of people. They are open for one more month before closing for the season. Advocate Harbour is about 3.5 hours from Lunenburg and around 2.5 Hours from Halifax. We took the slow road on route 2. It was totally worth it.
This is what I look like when I am happy.
The last picture I will leave you with is the Saturday Morning scene at the Rite Stop, gas station, general store, diner. The whole town seems to meet there for breakfast. Within ten minutes of sitting down I had met many people including the one and only local councilor who, amazingly. had heard of my plight. His common sense was so refreshing and I felt like Advocate Harbour was in good hands.
If you love nature, good food and crave peace and quiet then go take the trip. It is a hidden treasure.
The house which now houses The Caraway Restaurant was where my brother was born as the lady who then owned the house was a midwife. This was during the late 1940's. I'm sure there were other babies born there as there was no hospital in the village during that time. I call Advocate Harbour Home !
Well, It's a beautiful place to call home. Thanks for the story.
Thank you for this gem. I am often critical of social media, but when you can share an experience like this so completely at a desk with your tea, it's a rare treat.
Enjoyed your article on Advocate Harbour. I was born and brought up there. The house now The Caraway Restaurant was owned by my Uncle & Aunt when I was growing up. The house I lived in used to sit where the Fishermen's Monument is now. Thanks for sharing your experiences with the area.
Ferne
Thanks for visiting our little part of the world.
We are a small community of six, Advocate Harbour, Spencers Island, Allenville, Fraserville, New Salem, and Apple River. With beautiful and unforgettable scenery and the World’s Highest Tides on the Bay of Fundy.